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Walks: Grassington
This walk is a gentle introduction to Wharfedale and is based around
the centre of the upper dale, Grassington. It takes about three-and-a-half
hours to cover the 4.7 miles/7.6 kilometres, with toilets at the
start/finish and shopping in Grassington village nearby.
It is taken from Society members' Amanda and Brin Best's Wild
flower walks of the Yorkshire Dales (Southern Region). It appears
with the kind permission of the authors and their publisher Waterfront.
Copies of their book are available via mail order from Kingfisher
Productions. Tel. 0870 747 2983 or visit the website at www.railwayvideo.com
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Walk 3 Grassington
The jewel in the crown of this valley walk
is the spectacular wildflower meadow that has survived changes in
modem agriculture due to its location at the site of the old Grassington
hospital. Elsewhere colourful flower meadows have given way to uniform
green grassland, but wildflowers still abound on roadsides, forgotten
field corners and on the riverbank.
From the car park at the National Park
Visitor Centre, take the narrow, walled Sedber Lane path to Linton
Falls [1]. This old pack-horse trail is lined with sweet cicely,
herb-robert, oxeye daisy and meadow cranes-bill. Shining cranes-bill
grows in crannies in the dry stone wall. As you walk past the sweet
cicely, or crush some of its leaves, you can smell the strong fragrance
of aniseed. It is believed that the plant was introduced into Britain
for culinary purposes, the strong flavour disguising less fresh
ingredients.
Near the Bridge at Linton Falls look out
for some of the flowers that enjoy the damp conditions near the
River Wharfe. Monkey flower, meadowsweet and marsh valerian can
usually be seen. Just before the bridge, take the left-hand stile
into the grazed field and follow the footpath parallel to the river.
Few flowers survive the intense grazing and it is interesting to
note the variety of thistles that the animals have avoided, including
creeping, spear and welted thistles. Over the second stile is a
small area of exposed limestone that is probably the remains of
an earlier river bank, before the water eroded down to its current
position. Here mouse-ear hawkweed, wild thyme, black medick and
parsley-piert have escaped the sheep.
Shortly the path joins a minor road where
you turn right [2]. The roadside verges are colourful with meadow
cranes-bill, ladys bedstraw, meadow buttercup, water
avens, crosswort, meadow vetchling and common knapweed. In spring
you can see the unusual flowers of lords-and-ladies, and later in
the year clusters of its bright red poisonous berries. The roots
of this plant were collected in Elizabethan times for their high
starch content, which was used to stiffen fashionable linen ruffs.
The road passes some houses and deteriorates
into a rough track. Look out along the unmanaged edges of the track
for meadow flowers such as yellow rattle. Take the footpath across
the middle of the field avoiding the stone farm track on the left.
The path soon joins the river bank where you will find quaking grass,
betony and common restharrow. Restharrows name means literally
to stop the harrow, and in the days of horse-drawn ploughs
its matted stems and roots hindered progress considerably. It was
also known as wild liquorice, as children in the north dug up the
underground stems and chewed them.
At [3] the path crosses a spring where
it is worth taking a closer look for some of the water-loving flowers.
The large yellow monkeyflower stands out among the patches of water-cress
and similar fools water-cress. Elsewhere there is water mint,
devils-bit scabious, eyebright, common scurvygrass, marsh
thistle and great burnet. Wetter areas have the unusual three-lobed
leaves and fringed white flowers of bogbean. Higher up are patches
of the insectivorous common butterwort and the delicate birds-eye
primrose.
The route now passes along the riverbank
shaded by large trees [4], including horse-chestnut with its exotic-looking
cream and pink spikes of flowers. Greater knapweed and water forget-me-not
can also be found. Howgill Beck flows down a shady wooded gulley,
with woodland flora including the garlic-smelling ramsons and dogs
mercury. At the suspension bridge, take the short footpath on the
left up to the road. Follow the road right and turn immediately
left after the bridge over Hebden Beck onto the footpath through
houses and gardens. The large leaves of butterbur grow along the
stream-side, the strange pink flowers having withered much earlier
in the year before the leaves appeared.
Look out for damson trees before the fish
farm, then keep following the path beyond it across Hebden Beck
and through some fields that have Countryside Stewardship
signs. Eventually you reach the road where you turn right and then
left onto the main Grassington road. At the edge of the village,
past the hotel and the vehicle yard, take the footpath signed Grassington
via High Lane which follows a narrow, walled pack-horse trail.
Make sure you do not take the vehicle track adjacent to the sheds.
The tracksides and unmanaged edges of these fields are places to
look for remnants of meadow flowers, including great burnet and
field scabious. The great burnet is an elegant plant with a compact
blood-red flower head. For centuries it was used to staunch wounds
and as a remedy for internal bleeding, as ancient herbalists believed
that plants advertise their medicinal properties through their outward
signs.
After crossing the third wall you walk
through a narrow plantation with pines and enter the grounds of
the old hospital [5]. The buildings have recently been demolished
and new houses built, but the grounds remain as a colourful hay
meadow. This diverse meadow is one of the best in the county, being
designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Among the many
flowers you will see are oxeye daisy, tufted vetch, melancholy thistle,
meadowsweet, bugle, meadow buttercup, ladys-mantle, red clover
and many others including a wide variety of grasses, sedges and
rushes.
Follow the stone flag path through the
meadow, across the tarmac drive and out into the fields beyond.
Pause in these fields to look across the valley where the long,
thin, terraced lines of old field patterns called lynchets
can be readily seen, especially in the evening sunlight [6]. Here
the path hugs the bottom edges of the stone-walled fields and soon
joins another walled lane called High Lane which takes you into
Grassington.
In Grassington bear left down the hill
to the main square, and left on to the main road and back to the
visitor centre car park.
Other wildlife
There are many birds to look for
along the river Wharfe, among them dipper, kingfisher and goosander,
a fish-eating duck. Sand martins have made colonies in the sandy
river banks above the water, where trout and grayling live. Little
owls are commonly seen in the fields between Hebden and Grassington.
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